The Left Overs :)


Left overs as the title of this post because that is what you can call the handful of climbs i have left in the potrero.  A lot of these routes have been left for a reason, not because they super hard necessarily but maybe they are dangerous, or just not worth doing due to type of rock or maybe location. Usually 10 year old open projects have reasons for still being unclimbed.

The last week has been pretty quiet actually, i have tried to get on the crying rian project a couple times, but there is a section of the route that is constantly seeping along with two rest huecos higher on the route, this is why one of the locals said nobody bothered with the route, somedays its dry and somedays its wet and dirty which is super frustrating while trying to coordinate rest days and climbing other routes so i dont detrain.

Unfortunately I took a shitty fall last friday and hurt my heel a bit, trying to do some 11b that was never really cleaned and few people ever do,  I am all healed up now after taking a bunch of rest days, but really perplexed about some of the routes here in the potrero; their ideas of cleaning off holds can be severely lacking sometimes and leave climbs really dangerous. I have broken off holds before but this 11b i was on was just awful and really scary.

The guide book gave the route 2 out of 3 stars even though the author of the book and everyone he talked to hadn’t actually done it. I guess that is where the diamonds in the rough come in….when trying these lesser traveled routes, the 2 i did last week were exceptional and the best i have done on my trip and this 11b was the worst; not a bad climb, just so much cleaning needed to be done, it could be fantastic but no effort was put in to make it safe. There are more routes to search out in my last week here and caution will always be used when getting on them :)

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